Let's Get Back to Work!!!
Posted by Wade Goldthwait at 3/14/2010 10:53 AM 
Categories: General
Tags: Bilge coating Interior Finish Systems Installation
Categories: General
Tags: Bilge coating Interior Finish Systems Installation
Ahoy my friends!
It's been a long time since my last post and a lot have changes have happened. I am so sad to report that my Dad passed away right after Thanksgiving. However, we were so fortunate that we were able to care for him and spend as much time as we did with him before he passed. He is truly a great inspiration to me and I miss him so much.
Susan and I also sold our business on December 31st, 2009 and we have been catching up on projects around the house and I've finally been able to get back to work on the boat. My focus has been on starting the systems installations so I got some paint on the floor of the mechanical room and also the bilges.
Here's a shot of the bilges before and after primer. I thoroughly cleaned and wire brushed the surfaces and than wiped them all down with denatured alcohol. I used Interlux Primecoat for the primer.
I then applied two coats of Interlux Bilgecoat for the finish coating.
The coating is super glossy and should be very easy to keep clean.
So with the mechanical room floors and bilges painted the installation of systems could begin. Since I am not knowledgeable enough to design an integrated marine electrical and plumbing system I called upon the services of a talented young man who graduated from the Landing Boat School and started his own business called Atlantic Marine Services.
Zach is his name and systems are his game.
(Contact Zach Verhey at PO Box 387, 421 Alfred Rd., West Kennebunk, ME 04094, Phone # 207-752-0831 atmarineservices@yahoo.com)
I first met him when an inquiry to the Dometic "Vacuflush" company gave me his name as a dealer in our area. I was immediately very impressed with his professionalism when he came over to give me an estimate for the sanitation system and upon further discussion decided to engage him for the systems design. He did an energy audit to determine the electrical loads that we would have came up with recommendations for the House Battery Bank, Inverter, Lighting, Switches, Generator etc.. He also designed the plumbing system.
I ordered the parts for the electrical and plumbing systems and soon we were working together to install the systems.
Here is a picture of the Hot Water Heater and Water pumps for the Sea Water Washdown system and the Fresh Water System.
Also, 2 of the 4 House Bank Batteries are seen behind the water system.
Here's a close up of the water pumps.
Here is a view of the other side of the mechanical room with the sanitation holding tank and Mastervolt Inverter/Charger.
The other 2 house bank batteries are behind the tank and can't be seen. Here's a close up of the batteries. They are 4D, 200 amp hours each which will give me a total of 800 amp hours.
So now that we have some of the components in place I have to start mounting switches and lights and running wires to everything.
I'll put up another post soon with the progress. It's all very exciting and I can't wait until we have lights and outlets working, that will be fantastic.
Hang to the riggings my friends and leave a comment if you have time.
Wado
It's been a long time since my last post and a lot have changes have happened. I am so sad to report that my Dad passed away right after Thanksgiving. However, we were so fortunate that we were able to care for him and spend as much time as we did with him before he passed. He is truly a great inspiration to me and I miss him so much.
Susan and I also sold our business on December 31st, 2009 and we have been catching up on projects around the house and I've finally been able to get back to work on the boat. My focus has been on starting the systems installations so I got some paint on the floor of the mechanical room and also the bilges.
Here's a shot of the bilges before and after primer. I thoroughly cleaned and wire brushed the surfaces and than wiped them all down with denatured alcohol. I used Interlux Primecoat for the primer.
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I then applied two coats of Interlux Bilgecoat for the finish coating.
The coating is super glossy and should be very easy to keep clean.
So with the mechanical room floors and bilges painted the installation of systems could begin. Since I am not knowledgeable enough to design an integrated marine electrical and plumbing system I called upon the services of a talented young man who graduated from the Landing Boat School and started his own business called Atlantic Marine Services.
Zach is his name and systems are his game.
(Contact Zach Verhey at PO Box 387, 421 Alfred Rd., West Kennebunk, ME 04094, Phone # 207-752-0831 atmarineservices@yahoo.com)
I first met him when an inquiry to the Dometic "Vacuflush" company gave me his name as a dealer in our area. I was immediately very impressed with his professionalism when he came over to give me an estimate for the sanitation system and upon further discussion decided to engage him for the systems design. He did an energy audit to determine the electrical loads that we would have came up with recommendations for the House Battery Bank, Inverter, Lighting, Switches, Generator etc.. He also designed the plumbing system.
I ordered the parts for the electrical and plumbing systems and soon we were working together to install the systems.
Here is a picture of the Hot Water Heater and Water pumps for the Sea Water Washdown system and the Fresh Water System.
Also, 2 of the 4 House Bank Batteries are seen behind the water system.
Here's a close up of the water pumps.
Here is a view of the other side of the mechanical room with the sanitation holding tank and Mastervolt Inverter/Charger.
The other 2 house bank batteries are behind the tank and can't be seen. Here's a close up of the batteries. They are 4D, 200 amp hours each which will give me a total of 800 amp hours.
So now that we have some of the components in place I have to start mounting switches and lights and running wires to everything.
I'll put up another post soon with the progress. It's all very exciting and I can't wait until we have lights and outlets working, that will be fantastic.
Hang to the riggings my friends and leave a comment if you have time.
Wado
Boy did that first picture mislead me LOL
Looking at it I got the impression that the Hot water tank was 3 foot in Dia. and you could walk almost upright.
I think what did it was the stepladder outside in the background.
Please keep the blog going I enjoy reading it.
Bill Kelleher
46' Bertram Motoryacht
Toledo, Ohio
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Bill,
Thanks for the comment. It is nice to know that you find the story enjoyable. I am going to have to get a job soon so I'll be back to working on it on my days off but I can see a light at the end of the tunnel.
Wado
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Sorry to here about your Dad, I'm just starting a whole new back deck on 37ft Delta Clipper ,last year my front deck was a success except my finish paint job,going to sand off back to the new fiberglass and use new product on entire deck do think Gelcoat?or something different
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Pat,
I had good luck with the Sani-Tred product I used and plan on doing the rest of the decks with it. I also have heard good things about the Durabak that you see advertised in Houseboat magazine. It is a one part system where the Sani-Tred has to be mixed with a catalyst and the non-skid is not immersed in the product. You have to apply that in a separate step.
I still would love to see that article on Carl Gibson if you get a chance.
Thanks for your condolences on my dad. He was a wicked cool guy.
Wado
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1978 Delta Clipper 38ft
I just came across your website yesterday. Great information. I too am very sorry to hear about your Dad, my heart goes out to your family. My husband and I just bought a 1978 Delta Clipper that we have just started restoring. It's not in bad shape but the decks are soft and we are about to the point of opening them up and refinishing them. Is there any advise you could give? My main concern is making sure the hand rails will be able to be very secured enough to handle 3 little boys.
I also love the bead board on the interior. We are doing the same in the rear of the boat. We had the same problems with the corners being rotted and we have replaced all of that and are gutting the kitchen now.
Oh I was also wondering about the windows. I have not been able to find anywhere online where you can buy seals or hardware. Any help would be great.
By the way your boat looks wonderful!!!
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Amy,
Welcome aboard and thanks for your condolences.
As far as advice about your decks is concerned, are the decks "soft" because they only used 1/2" plywood? My upper decks were solid and dry but very bouncy because they only used 1/2" plywood. I beefed up the framing by adding oak sister stringers from underneath and then put another layer of plywood over the deck. They are very stiff now even with multiple people up there.
Or are the decks soft because the plywood and framing is punky in a few places? Can you view and examine the framing from below decks?
If you can examine the framing from underneath and it is solid but the plywood is punky you will have to remove the bad plywood and patch in. On both my aft deck and bow deck there were so many punky areas of bad framing and plywood I just ripped everything out and replaced with new.
It's not that bad a job and now that I've used the Sani-Tred with such good results I wouldn't even fiberglass the new decks, I would use 2 layers of plywood and seal the surface with the non-skid system that I described in my "Up on the Roof" post. I could have saved Susan and I a bunch of money if I'd known then about the Sani-Tred.
Send me some pics if you get a chance.
Wado
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I believe the upper decks are just soft due to them only using 1/2" plywood. Our lower decks are soft from rot. I finally convinced my husband and Dad thay it would save alot of heartache if we just ripped everything off to make sure everything was solid in the framing.
I was wondering about that Sani-Tred. Would that be a good product to use on our lower decks and catwalks? We are too the point of doing the decks and just waiting for the weather to break. I would love to get out of doing the fiberglass. I will make sure to take pictures and send then. I wish we had the time to do a complete gut, but we are going to try and get her on the water this summer. We have decided though to full her in the fall and dry dock her again so we can work on her over the winter.
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Amy,
Asolutely the Sani-tred can be used with out fiberglass. If I were rebuilding my lower decks again I would rip them off and repair any framing issues and then put down a layer of 1/2" exterior plywood. Seal the underside of the plywood with 1 coat of Sani-tred or marine paint. Use Liquid nails or another type of adhesive in addition to your screws or nails when you fasten the plywood. Then I would put a layer of 3/8" or 1/2" exterior plywood on top of your first layer making sure you overlap the seams and leave a 3/8" - 1/2" gap between the sheets for LRB (Liquid Rubber Base)
Then proceed according to the Sani-tred directions. You can see the steps I took in the "Up on the Roof" post.
You also asked me about window parts in your first comment and I forgot to answer you about that. I went to my local glass company and was able to find a replacement rubber channel that was pretty close to the original. I have not been able as of yet to find a source for replacement hardware. I am going to have 2 new windows made for my changed openings by the Bomon company.
www.bomon.com
I am at your service if I can be of further assistance.
Wado
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Thank you for the information. I believe we will be ordering everything this week and waiting for the weather to break a bit so we can do the tear off. I am so excited and will take some pictures to send your way.
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